Overview
Varkala defies easy categorisation. In a single landscape, it contains multitudes: a revered Hindu pilgrimage site on one side, a backpacker and yoga retreat on the cliff top, a traditional Kerala fishing village below, and one of the most dramatically beautiful beaches in southern India at its base. The result is one of the most distinctive and layered beach destinations in Asia — a place where ancient spiritual traditions and modern beach travel coexist, not always easily, but with a richness that few beach destinations can match.
The geography of Varkala is what sets it immediately apart from every other beach in Kerala (and arguably in India). Unlike the flat, interminable coconut-palm-backed beaches that stretch along most of India’s southwestern coast, Varkala is defined by its cliffs: a continuous wall of dramatic laterite and clay cliffs, rust-red and amber and ochre in colour, rising 15-20 meters (50-65 feet) directly from the beach. The cliff top is lined with a long path — Helipad Road — that runs the length of the beach, backing a continuous strip of open-fronted restaurants, yoga shalas, ayurvedic massage parlours, jewelry shops, and guesthouses, all with breathtaking views over the Arabian Sea.
Below the cliffs lies Varkala Beach (also known as Papanasam Beach — meaning “destroyer of sins” in Malayalam), which holds special significance in Hindu theology. The Janardhana Swami Temple, one of the most ancient and sacred Vishnu temples in Kerala, stands on the headland just north of the beach, and Varkala is mentioned in the Skanda Purana as a holy site. Hindu pilgrims come here to perform rituals for their ancestors in the sea, and the waters are considered by believers to have purifying properties. The juxtaposition of spiritual Hindu rituals taking place on one section of beach while Western tourists sunbathe on another is unique and thought-provoking.
Geography
The beach runs for approximately 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) from the north cliff area (where the cliff-top restaurants are concentrated) southward toward Odayam. The northern section, directly below the cliff-top commercial strip, is the most popular with international visitors. The central section is where pilgrimage activity is most concentrated — puja rituals, offerings, and ancestral ceremonies take place here, particularly in the early morning and late afternoon. The southern section, around Odayam village, is quieter, less commercial, and favored by those seeking more local color.
The beach itself is golden-yellow sand, moderately fine, backed by the cliffs to the north and by palms and vegetation further south. The Arabian Sea here has a moderate to strong surf compared to the eastern (Bay of Bengal) coast of India. Swimming is generally safe in the central and northern sections but requires awareness of the breaking waves; waves of 1-2 meters are common.
Getting to the Beach
By Train
Varkala Sivagiri Railway Station is directly in the town and receives express trains from major Indian cities. From Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) — the capital of Kerala, 51 kilometers south — trains run frequently and take approximately 40-50 minutes. Trivandrum is well-connected to Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Chennai, and other Indian cities, as well as having an international airport with some Gulf and Southeast Asian connections.
From Kollam (Quilon) — approximately 35 kilometers north — trains take 30-40 minutes. Kollam is the southern end of the famous Kerala backwaters network.
Auto-rickshaws (tuk-tuks) from Varkala station to the beach and cliff area cost a small fixed fare and take about 10-15 minutes.
By Air
The nearest airport is Trivandrum International Airport (TRV), approximately 55 kilometers (1-1.5 hours by road) from Varkala. The airport has direct international connections to the UAE, Qatar, Kuwait, and Singapore (important for the large Keralite diaspora and for international travellers connecting through Gulf hubs). From the airport, a taxi or cab to Varkala takes 1-1.5 hours.
From Kochi (Cochin)
Kochi is approximately 170 kilometers north and is the main international gateway to Kerala for many visitors (Cochin International Airport is larger and more connected). Trains from Ernakulam (Kochi) to Varkala take 3-3.5 hours. The route passes through Kollam.
When to Come
Kerala’s coast has two monsoon seasons which affect Varkala’s beach conditions dramatically.
- October to March (ideal season): The northeast monsoon winds blow offshore, conditions are dry and sunny, and the Arabian Sea calms significantly. Temperatures are warm (27–32°C / 81–90°F). This is peak season, and the cliff restaurants fill with backpackers and yoga retreatants. Water is clearest and swimming is at its safest.
- April and May: Increasingly hot and humid, with rising swell on the sea. Still swimmable but less comfortable. Good value accommodation deals available.
- June to September (southwest monsoon): The main monsoon brings heavy, sustained rainfall, dramatic seas, and powerful surf. Swimming is dangerous and officially prohibited during the height of the monsoon. The cliff-top becomes atmospheric in a completely different way — the cliffs streaming with water, the sea crashing violently below. Some guesthouses and restaurants close. Surf aficionados (advanced) find conditions occasionally interesting.
- September and October: The withdrawal of the monsoon. Conditions improve rapidly, the landscape is lush and green, and visitor numbers are low. Good timing for those who prefer quieter travel.
Finding a Room
On the Cliff Top
The cliff-top path (Helipad Road and surroundings) has the greatest density of accommodation, ranging from simple guesthouses to increasingly stylish boutique properties with sea-view terraces. Properties like The Gateway Hotel Janardhanapuram (Taj Hotels) represent the upscale end; dozens of independent guesthouses offer rooms for very modest sums. Being on the cliff gives access to the restaurant strip and spectacular views without having to climb up from the beach.
At the Beach Level
A few guesthouses and small resorts sit directly at the base of the cliffs or just behind the beach. These have more direct beach access but involve steep steps or paths to reach the cliff-top amenities.
South of the Cliff (Odayam)
The village of Odayam, 1-2 kilometers south of the main cliff area, has a handful of quieter guesthouses and home-stays that attract visitors seeking a more local experience.
Experiences
Ayurvedic Treatments
Kerala is the spiritual home of Ayurveda — India’s ancient system of holistic medicine — and Varkala has an enormous concentration of Ayurvedic practitioners, from simple massage parlours on the cliff top to dedicated retreat centers offering multi-day treatments. A genuine Ayurvedic consultation followed by a traditional abhyanga (full-body oil massage) or shirodhara (warm oil flow treatment) is one of the most authentic and deeply relaxing experiences available in India. Seek out practitioners with verifiable qualifications rather than the most prominent cliff-top storefronts.
Yoga and Meditation
Varkala is one of the most established yoga destinations in southern India. Numerous shalas operate morning and evening classes in Hatha, Ashtanga, and Yin yoga. Multi-day yoga retreats are widely available and often exceptional value compared to equivalent programs in Bali or Thailand.
Visiting the Janardhana Swami Temple
The ancient hilltop temple at the northern headland is one of the most important Vishnu temples in Kerala and is said to be over 2,000 years old. Non-Hindus may or may not be permitted to enter the inner sanctum (this varies by temple policy); regardless, the temple complex and its setting on the headland above the beach are architecturally and culturally fascinating. Dress conservatively (no shorts, cover shoulders) and remove shoes before entering the premises.
Boat Trip through the Backwaters
Varkala sits at the southern edge of Kerala’s famous backwater network — the interconnected system of canals, rivers, and lagoons that stretches northward through Kollam to Alleppey (Alappuzha). Day boat trips into the backwaters, or longer overnight kettuvallam (rice boat) houseboats, can be arranged from the Varkala area and provide a compelling contrast to the beach environment.
Before You Go
Is it appropriate for foreign tourists to visit Papanasam Beach given its religious significance? Yes. The beach is open to all visitors, though respect for ongoing religious rituals is expected and essential. If you encounter puja ceremonies (Hindu worship rituals) taking place in the water, give them space, do not photograph without permission, and be quiet. The beach has distinct zones — the northern section is more tourist-oriented while the central section sees more pilgrimage activity. Wearing a sarong over swimwear when walking through the pilgrimage area is a thoughtful gesture.
Is it safe to swim at Varkala? During the dry season (October–March), swimming in the northern beach sections is generally safe for confident swimmers, though the surf is more significant than at calm-water beaches. Lifeguards operate during peak season. During the monsoon, swimming is dangerous and officially prohibited. Always check conditions locally.
Is Varkala a good destination for solo female travellers? Varkala is considered one of the more comfortable beach destinations in India for solo female travellers due to its established traveller infrastructure and relatively cosmopolitan cliff-top community. Standard precautions apply: dress modestly when off the beach, be cautious after dark, and trust your instincts. The cliff-top restaurant strip is safe and social in the evenings.
What is the food like? Excellent. Kerala cuisine is among the finest in India, and Varkala’s cliff-top restaurants — despite catering predominantly to international visitors — do generally serve good quality Kerala fish curry, appam, puttu, and fresh seafood alongside international traveller staples. The coconut-based curries of Kerala, served with rice or flatbread, are among the most delicious and distinctive in South Asian cooking.