At a Glance
Cannon Beach is the image that Americans picture when they think of the Oregon Coast, and one of the most distinctive and recognisable coastal landscapes in the United States. Located on the northern Oregon coast, approximately 80 kilometres (50 miles) southwest of Portland, this small, well-preserved beach town is anchored by one of the most dramatic natural landmarks on the entire Pacific Coast: Haystack Rock, a 72-metre (235-foot) monolithic basalt sea stack that rises dramatically from the waterline, surrounded by tide pools, colonised by nesting seabirds, and framed by the wide, dark sand beach and the brooding Pacific.
Everything about Cannon Beach is antithetical to the conventional sun-and-sand beach resort model, and this is precisely its appeal. The sand is not white but a dark grey-black, characteristic of the volcanic basalt geology of the Pacific Northwest coast. The ocean is not warm and calm but cold (the Pacific off Oregon rarely exceeds 15°C / 59°F even in summer), powerful, and perpetually dramatic — great swells roll in from thousands of miles of open ocean, and the coastline’s response is a continuous display of crashing surf, sea mist, and dramatic light. The sky is frequently overcast, the air is cool and fresh, and the atmosphere is one of wild, melancholy beauty that the Pacific Northwest does better than anywhere in the continental United States.
The town of Cannon Beach has managed its growth and character with admirable care. A strict design code limits signage, requires natural materials in construction, and maintains the low-rise, arts-community atmosphere that has defined the town since artists first settled here in the early 20th century. The result is a small town of genuine quality: excellent art galleries, independent bookshops, high-quality restaurants, distinctive boutiques, and a walkable street grid that can be covered entirely on foot.
Cannon Beach has appeared in numerous films and television productions — most famously in the final scenes of Richard Donner’s 1985 film The Goonies and Steven Spielberg’s 1984 horror anthology Twilight Zone: The Movie. The Haystack Rock is perhaps the most filmed geological feature on the West Coast outside of Yosemite.
Haystack Rock and Tide Pools
Haystack Rock is the defining feature of Cannon Beach and one of the most impressive pieces of coastal geology in the United States. At 72 metres in height, it is one of the largest intertidal structures in the world — a basalt monolith formed by lava flows millions of years ago, gradually isolated from the mainland by erosion and rising sea levels.
The rock is part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge and is a designated Area of Special Interest. Landing on or climbing the rock is prohibited — it provides nesting habitat for tufted puffins (which nest in burrows in the upper cliff face from April to August), Brandt’s cormorants, pelagic cormorants, and pigeon guillemots. During spring and summer, the puffin colony is visible from the beach with binoculars, and the Haystack Rock Awareness Program (HRAP) operates staffed tide pool interpretation sessions around the rock on most days during the tourist season.
The Tide Pools
At low tide, the rocks surrounding Haystack Rock — and the numerous other sea stacks along the Cannon Beach shore — are exposed to reveal one of the richest intertidal ecosystems in the Pacific Northwest. Purple sea urchins, ochre sea stars, giant green anemones, hermit crabs, shore crabs, chitons, mussels, barnacles, and dozens of other species inhabit the tide pool zones. Volunteers from HRAP station themselves in the tide pool area during low tides to educate visitors and ensure appropriate behaviour around the marine life.
Timing: Productive tide pool viewing requires arriving at or slightly before low tide. Check a tide table for Cannon Beach before visiting (available online or from the local visitor center). A low tide of -0.5 feet or lower exposes the most productive zone.
Transport and Access
From Portland
Cannon Beach is approximately 80-90 kilometres (50-56 miles) from downtown Portland via US-26 West (the Sunset Highway) to the Oregon Coast Highway (US-101). The drive takes approximately 1.5-2 hours depending on traffic. This is the standard approach from the Portland metropolitan area, which is the most common starting point for Oregon Coast visitors.
US-26 is the most direct route — it crosses the Coast Range through dense Douglas fir and hemlock forest before emerging at the coast near Seaside. US-30 along the Columbia River is a more scenic alternative for the northern approach. Traffic on US-26 can be heavy on Friday evenings, Saturday mornings, and summer holiday weekends — plan accordingly.
By Bus
Pacific Crest Trailways and the Sunset Empire Transportation District (The Bus) connect Astoria and Seaside to Cannon Beach with limited service. The Portland International Airport Shuttle and Sunset Transports offer private shuttle services between Portland and the coast. However, the Oregon Coast’s geography makes a rental car strongly advisable for exploring beyond Cannon Beach itself.
By Air
Portland International Airport (PDX) is the gateway for fly-drive visitors. Car rental is available at the airport, and the drive to Cannon Beach is straightforward.
Seasonal Guide
The Oregon Coast has a notoriously variable and often misty climate. Expecting Mediterranean beach weather is an error; approaching with the right mindset and the right clothing makes it a genuinely wonderful destination.
- June to August (peak season): The driest and warmest months, though “warm” by Pacific Northwest standards means 18-24°C (65-75°F) on good days, frequently cooler. July and August have the highest percentage of clear days. The beach is at its most crowded on summer weekends. Even in midsummer, a jacket or light fleece is advisable in the evening.
- September and October: Often excellent weather — the summer crowds have departed, many days are clear and warm (by Oregon standards), and the coastal light in autumn is extraordinarily beautiful. This is a popular time for photography and for those who prefer quieter travel.
- November to May: The Oregon Coast’s stormy season. Rain is frequent, winds can be powerful, and storm swells create dramatic oceanfront conditions. Storm watching is a genuine Oregon Coast winter tradition — watching enormous Pacific swells crash against the sea stacks from the warmth of a beachside hotel room or from the beach itself is a dramatic and memorable experience. Many Oregon Coast hotels promote winter storm watching packages. It is not swimming season, but it is atmospheric in a uniquely Pacific Northwest way.
Places to Stay
Cannon Beach has a concentrated and high-quality accommodation scene dominated by independent properties rather than large hotel chains.
Luxury
- Stephanie Inn: The most celebrated property in Cannon Beach — a beautifully designed inn directly on the beach with Haystack Rock in the sightline. Excellent in-room amenities, included breakfast, and outstanding service. One of the Pacific Northwest’s finest small hotels. Expensive and books out well in advance.
- Surfsand Resort: A well-located oceanfront resort with multiple room categories, an indoor pool, and a good restaurant. More rooms than the Stephanie Inn and slightly more accessible pricing.
Mid-Range and Boutique
- Ocean Lodge: A craftsman-style hotel two blocks from the beach with a fireplace in most rooms and a genuine Pacific Northwest aesthetic.
- The Waves Motel: A classic Oregon Coast motel updated with good design sensibilities. Excellent location on the beach.
Vacation Rentals
Cannon Beach has a significant vacation rental market. Houses and beach cottages offer self-catering options ideal for families or groups — particularly appealing in the cool, often wet Oregon weather where having a kitchen and a living room with a fireplace is a genuine asset.
Exploring the Area
Ecola State Park
Just north of Cannon Beach, Ecola State Park protects a magnificent stretch of headland with sweeping views north to Cape Disappointment and south along the beach. The park has several hiking trails, including a section of the Oregon Coast Trail, and several dramatic viewpoints over the sea. The view of Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock from the Ecola Point overlook is the most iconic photograph of the beach. The park’s Indian Beach section has a consistent beach break that attracts local surfers.
The Oswald West State Park
About 15 kilometres south of Cannon Beach, Oswald West protects an extraordinary old-growth forest descending to a secluded beach at Short Sand Beach. The 2.5 km walk through ancient Sitka spruce and western red cedar to the beach is one of the finest forest walks on the Oregon Coast, and the beach — used by surfers and kayakers — is gorgeous in its isolation.
Tide Pool Interpretation with HRAP
The Haystack Rock Awareness Program volunteers provide free, knowledgeable interpretation of the tide pool ecosystem around Haystack Rock on a daily basis in summer. Arriving at the rock during a low tide when HRAP volunteers are present is the most educational and enjoyable way to experience the tide pools — they know where to look, what to identify, and how to handle (or not handle) the marine life appropriately.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you swim at Cannon Beach? Swimming in the Pacific Ocean off the Oregon Coast is generally inadvisable. The water temperature barely exceeds 15°C (59°F) even at midsummer, and rip currents and shore break on Oregon’s beaches are dangerous. Most visitors experience the ocean from the beach rather than in it. Wading in the surf is possible in calm conditions but the cold water is a significant deterrent. Surfers wear thick wetsuits year-round.
Is Cannon Beach pet-friendly? Yes. Dogs are permitted on Cannon Beach on a leash. The town has a generally pet-friendly character, with many dog-friendly accommodation options and restaurants with outdoor seating. Dogs must be leashed within the tide pool area around Haystack Rock to protect the wildlife.
When can I see puffins at Cannon Beach? Tufted puffins nest on Haystack Rock from approximately April to late August. They are most active at the colony in June and July. Binoculars are helpful for observing them on the rock face. HRAP volunteers often have spotting scopes available for public use during their sessions.
What is the best way to experience the Oregon Coast beyond Cannon Beach? US-101 runs the length of the Oregon Coast and is one of America’s great scenic drives. Heading south from Cannon Beach via Manzanita, Rockaway Beach, Garibaldi, Tillamook (cheddar cheese factory and air museum), Pacific City (Pelican Pub, Haystack Rock, different), Lincoln City, and eventually Newport, Yachats, Florence, and Bandon reveals an extraordinary variety of coastline over 200+ kilometres of driving. Allow at least 3-4 days for a meaningful Oregon Coast road trip.